Mileage Guide: For a great mile-by-mile guide complete with topographic maps please see ‘The Middle Fork of the Salmon River: A Comprehensive Guide’ by Matt Leidecker

Historical Highlights: While some historical highlights are mentioned here ("history" sections below), the best book on the history of the Middle Fork of the Salmon, see ‘The Middle Fork: A Guide’ by Carrey and Conley.  Both of these are listed under “further reading.”

Mile-by-Mile Guide

Boundary Creek to Velvet Falls (mile 5.3)
This first section of the river is narrow and technical at all water levels. It moves very quickly with few places for pause and can offer plenty of whitewater excitement right out of the gates when the water is high.

Velvet Falls to Indian Creek (mile 25.5)
This section of river is packed with rapids but there is a bit more space between them. At very low water it is extremely technical. There are small hot springs at mile 7.3 near Trail Flat Camp. There are many rapids of note in this section. One that is recommended to scout is Lake Creek Rapid at mile 21.7 followed closely by Pistol Creek Rapid. On most maps these are marked as minor challenges.  However in the last few years there have been numerous creek blowouts (flooding events) and newly formed log jams continually change the features in these rapids. You can pull out before Lake Creek on the right and walk downstream for a scout. Pistol Creek tends to collect wood debris so is worth a look before you run downstream. Most trips camp for night one somewhere in the first 16 miles.

History:

At mile 22.8 there have been numerous generations of cabins. The cabin first was built in the late 1800’s by Sam Hopkins. Since the original structure there have been 17 cabins built, many of them destroyed in fires and rebuilt. Today you will see a few rebuilt structures from the river.

At mile 25.5 Indian Creek was home to the Paulson family with kids Daisy and Fred, who grew up in the canyon, left for civilization and later came back to live for much of their adult life along the river.

Indian Creek to Tappan Canyon Entrance (mile 58)
In very low water most rafting companies and some private groups fly in some gear and people to Indian creek because the top 25 miles become too technical to run heavy boats on. Indian Creek has a backcountry airstrip, ranger station and composting toilet. At this point the river canyon opens up a bit and you can see further into the surrounding ridges. There are excellent examples of past forest fires and regeneration through this section. From Indian Creek to the Entrance of Tappan Canyon there are numerous rapids and mini canyons, which open back up periodically to a larger view of the landscape. This section of river has incredible ponderosa pine groves on flats just above the high water mark.

Hot springs:
At mile 33.5 on river right you will see a thin waterfall cascading down onto rocks; this is Sunflower Hot springs. At mile 49 Loon Creek comes into the river on the right, a short hike up this creek there is a large hot spring fed pool. At mile 52.8 there are more small hot spring pools right on the left side of the river, look for steam in cooler weather.

History:
At mile 28.2 there are the remains and a stable shaft of the Pungo Mine. Pull over on the left and go on a short hike up a hill to walk in the mine.

At mile 35 you pass the Middle Fork Lodge and Bridge. This land was first developed in 1900, has been built on periodically since and now runs as a hunting and fishing lodge. The owners have an agreement with the Nature Conservancy limiting further development.

At Mile 40.1 you can stop on river left and hike up to a large bench where are there are beautifully preserved pictographs on a rock cliff facing the river. These pictographs are credited to the Tukudeka band, a group of Mountain Shoshoni.

At mile 57.1 still stands Fred and Daisy Paulson-Tappan’s Homestead. You can stop on river right and walk to see a lovely little house and sheds, the couple built the place in the 1930’s. Daisy had grown up along the Middle Fork and returned with her husband later in life to establish this homestead.

Tappan Canyon Entrance to Jack Creek Canyon (mile 70.5)
This section of water is very dynamic, beginning with the Tappan rapid series, opening up into wide rolling hills near the Flying B Ranch and narrowing again into Jack Creek Canyon. Where the series of Tappan rapids begin the river walls close in to form a beautiful and striking granite canyon. Tappan Falls (mile 58.5) can be scouted easily from a pull in on the river right about 50 yards above the drop. Tappan two and Tappan three have changed immensely in the past two or three years due to large creek blowouts. Tappan three should be scouted from river right. This rapid tends to collect wood debris much like Pistol Creek upstream. Once through the section of Tappan Rapids the river widens and becomes shallow for a while. This is a very scenic section with characteristic sage benches lining the river. After you pass the Flying B Ranch the first rapid you come to will be Haystack (mile67.8) followed closely my Bernard Creek Rapid. In high and medium flows these rapids will have some holes and water pushing into boulders, but as the water drops they get very technical and cause many boats to get stuck. You can scout Haystack from river right or left and “boat scout” Bernard from an eddy between the rapids on river left. After Bernard the rapids mellow for a bit and the canyon closes in again.

History:
At mile 66.5 you will pass the Flying B Ranch. A couple bought this property in the early 1930’s; they lived here and raised cattle for over 20 years. Now the ranch is run as a hunting/guest ranch. There have been numerous fires come within feet of demolishing the ranch but it has somehow escaped the destruction. The ranch is welcoming to paddlers, so feel free to stop in.

Jack Creek Canyon- Big Creek (mile 77.8)
Jack Creek Canyon is beautiful with steep granite walls. It is characterized by fun class III wave trains in most water levels. Once you get past the Jack Creek Rapids there is a series of camps nestled on beaches in this canyon. The rapids slow a bit until mile 77.4 where there is a fun one called Waterfall Creek. Below the rapid is the namesake creek. This is a lovely place to pull over and hike to up get a better view of the waterfall. Just downstream  Big Creek comes into the Middle Fork on river left. This marks the beginning of the impassible canyon section, and here the trail that has run along the river most of the duration leaves the river’s edge as the canyon walls become too steep.

History:
At mile 74.2 there are more pictographs in a place called Rattlesnake Cave. The cave is close to the river and the pullout in on river right.

Big Creek- House of Rocks (mile 93.2)
You are now in impassible canyon, the third deepest canyon in North America. For the first few miles the rapids are straightforward and separated by slower moving pools. After passing Veil Falls the rapids pick up for a mile or so and then you reach a mellow section with some beautiful beach camps. From Cliffside Rapid, mile 88.3, for the next 6 miles there are fun long rapids scattered throughout. Watch Rubber, mile 91.2, at high water it tends to enjoy flipping rafts. This whole section is home to large waves and hydraulics in higher flows. In low flows many of the rapids to get quite technical so watch out for rocks that want to pin rafts. The canyon walls are extremely striking through this section; there is a good deal of metamorphosed rock and lovely quartz banding.

History:
At mile 80.3 there is a small eddy on river right that lets you stop and hike up to one of the most magical places on the Middle Fork, Veil Falls. This natural amphitheater has a thin waterfall flowing year round that gets blown by the wind, making it possible to see sage and juniper growing right next to wild mint. It is a bit of a walk and fairly steep. As you enter the cavern look up to your right and you will see some red pictographs of people who enjoyed this place for millennia.

At mile 87.5 on river left you can still see remnants of Earl Parrot’s cabin. Parrot was a well-known character along the Middle Fork. Quite the self-sufficient hermit, he grew a huge garden and only went into town once a year.

House of Rocks Rapid to the Confluence with the Main Salmon (mile 96.2)
The final few miles of the river are mellow, offering boaters a time to reflect on the wonder of the place they just floated through. Don’t forget to look back upstream into the Middle Fork as you join the Main Salmon, this last look into the impassible canyon is a beauty.

The ramp on river right at the confluence is rough gravel, fairly steep and does not have much room. It is a difficult carry to the road.  Most people choose to go through the takeout process a few miles downstream at Cache Bar. Here the ramp is larger and you can pull a vehicle right to river’s edge.  Be attentive to others and try to be as efficient as possible for it can still get quite busy. Between the confluence and Cache Bar there is one more rapid, Cramer Creek. This rapid is short but has a good elevation drop. It was created by a rockslide in 2002. You can get out on the road on river right to scout if you wish.

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Middle Fork Salmon Rafting | Whitewater Difficulty | Middle Fork Highlights